Boho Renaissance: Chloé Show Sparks Revival of Hippy-Adjacent Style

A model on the catwalk during the Chloé autumn/winter show at Paris fashion week last month. Photograph: Teresa Suárez/EPA

The unmistakable jingle of a coin belt is now the anthem of the fashion world, as “boho chic,” the free-spirited style championed by Sienna Miller in the 2000s, makes a triumphant return. While it has lingered in the background for some time, it was the recent debut of Chloé’s creative director, Chemena Kamali, at Paris Fashion Week that served as the official catalyst for its resurgence, featuring ethereal blouses, high-waisted denim, and Miller herself gracing the front row.

The revival extends beyond the runway. Since the Chloé show, searches for “boho dresses” on John Lewis have surged by 278%, while “boho tops” have seen a 150% increase. Marks & Spencer is embracing the trend for summer, unveiling a collection rich in broderie anglaise, beading, crochet, and relaxed, wide-legged denim that captures the effortless allure of boho. Given its vintage-inspired essence, Depop is already witnessing the impact, with searches for crochet, fringing, and maxi-lengths on the rise.

Boho chic, more of a vibe than a specific look, embodies frills, ruffles, suede, fringing, macrame, and silhouettes that gently float off the body. However, if there’s an image that encapsulates it, it’s Miller at Glastonbury in 2004, clad in Uggs, a hip-grazing coin belt, and oversized sunglasses.

Fashion pundits have long foreseen its return. Vogue Runway’s José Criales-Unzueta predicted the revival, citing the Olsens in the late 2000s and Serena van der Woodsen in “Gossip Girl.” This time, boho chic returns with a mature facelift, exuding an aura of carefree elegance amidst a nostalgic backdrop.

“Boho has enduring appeal for numerous reasons,” notes Jane Shepherdson, the visionary behind Topshop’s cultural phenomenon in the 2000s. “It exudes attitude, ease, and an effortless insouciance that few trends can match.”

Yet, critics caution against the potential for cultural appropriation inherent in the trend. Mihaela Moscaliuc, an academic delving into issues of representation and cultural identity, emphasizes fashion’s capacity to shape perceptions and behaviors, particularly concerning the Romani people, whose cultural heritage often inspires boho chic.